Last month, I made my second trip of the year to Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland. This time, my wife Kim joined me for her first visit.
We had two very specific reasons for going back. We are part owners of Carrick Rangers Football Club and wanted to attend another match. Even better, Stiff Little Fingers—my favorite punk rock band of all time—was playing an outdoor concert in its hometown.
Football and punk rock were enough to get me on the plane.
But over a very fast weekend, we also experienced some fascinating history, explored more of Belfast, drank a few pints in fantastic pubs, and came home convinced we need to spend more time in Northern Ireland.
Two reasons got us there. Belfast gave us plenty of reasons to return.
Why Go Back to Belfast in the same year?
Another reason we returned to Belfast is that it’s easy for us to get to.
For Americans on the East Coast, Belfast can also work surprisingly well as a long weekend destination.
For this trip, we flew into Dublin and took the bus directly to Belfast. It was inexpensive and easy.
A Good Base in Belfast
We stayed at The Flint, which was a great base for the weekend.
It is close to Belfast Grand Central Station and within easy walking distance of City Hall, the Crown Liquor Saloon and the Cathedral Quarter. The hotel was comfortable, and the location was excellent. Next time, however, I would request a room away from the main road.
And there will be a next time.
Start With Belfast’s History
Our first real activity was one I would recommend to anyone visiting Belfast for the first time: a Black Taxi tour focused on the Troubles.
I knew the basic history before visiting Northern Ireland, but seeing the neighborhoods, murals, and peace walls makes it much more tangible.
One thing that struck me during the tour was how recent that history really is. We also learned that while Belfast has changed dramatically, reminders of the divisions haven’t simply disappeared. It was eye-opening.
You don’t need to become an expert on Northern Irish history before visiting Belfast. But I do think understanding some of that history makes the rest of the city more meaningful.
Belfast’s Pubs Are Fantastic
Fortunately, our history lesson was followed by something considerably lighter: Belfast’s pubs.
We started with lunch at the Crown Liquor Saloon, one of Belfast’s most famous pubs. It is magnificent inside and worth visiting even if you aren’t much of a pub person. I, of course, am very much a pub person.
From there, we eventually made our way through several more Belfast pubs, including the Duke of York, Harp Bar and Fibber Magee’s. And yes, I remain convinced that Guinness tastes better in Ireland.
One of my biggest takeaways from this trip is that Belfast is simply a great pub city. I would absolutely build a pub crawl into another visit.
I learned something else about eating in Belfast. We had one expensive restaurant dinner during the weekend, and it was probably our least memorable meal. Next time, we’ll stick with the pub grub.
Football Match in Carrickfergus
Saturday was the day that originally shaped the entire weekend. We took the train from Belfast to Carrickfergus, a small town on Belfast Lough.
Before the match, we had time to explore the town and Carrickfergus Castle, an impressive medieval castle sitting right on the water. Then it was time for football.
We stopped at Ownies for a pre-match pint before heading over to Taylors Avenue for the Carrick Rangers match. After the match, naturally, there was time for another pint before catching the train back to Belfast.
Being an owner made the experience even more fun.
Carrick Rangers has more than a thousand fan owners, many of them scattered around the world. If you are one of them and haven’t made it to Taylors Avenue yet, go.
The club’s hospitality team made us feel welcome, and attending a match gives you a completely different connection to the club than simply following the results from home.
I’ve attended plenty of matches at enormous stadiums around Europe. Watching football at a small local ground is equally enjoyable. Seek out local football when you travel.
Stiff Little Fingers in Belfast
Then came the highlight of the weekend. After taking the train back to Belfast, we headed to Custom House Square for Stiff Little Fingers. I’ve seen Stiff Little Fingers before. They are my favorite punk rock band of all time.
But seeing Stiff Little Fingers is one thing. Seeing them in Belfast, playing to their hometown fans, is something completely different.
The lineup made the night even better. Ruts DC played, as did The Undertones, another legendary band from Northern Ireland, before Stiff Little Fingers took the stage.
The Belfast crowd was crazy—in the best possible way.
Some concerts you enjoy; others you remember. This was one I will remember.
Music can give you a reason to build an entire trip around a particular place and time. We probably wouldn’t have picked this exact weekend without the concert. I’m glad we did.
What We Learned From Going Back to Belfast
Every trip teaches me something.
Sometimes it confirms what I already believed. Sometimes a place surprises me. Sometimes I leave realizing I haven’t given a destination enough time. Belfast did a little of all three.
The pubs really are fantastic.
Take a Troubles tour because understanding the history will change how you see the city.
Seek out a local football match rather than limiting yourself to the biggest clubs.
Don’t assume an expensive restaurant will provide a better experience than a good pub and a pint.
Most importantly, give Northern Ireland more time.
Our trip lasted from Thursday night through Sunday, and that was simply too fast.
That was probably the clearest lesson in the notes I wrote immediately after getting home: next time, add another day and explore more of Northern Ireland.
Carrick Rangers and Stiff Little Fingers gave us the reasons to book this trip.
The history, pubs, people, and everything we didn’t have enough time to see gave us the reasons to come back.
We’ll be back.
I am Doug Keating, and this is my letter to my sons.